Percentage of fragrance compared to ounces:

1/4oz = 1.5%

1/2oz = 3%

3/4oz = 4.5%

1oz = 6%

1.2oz = 7%

1.6oz = 10%

2oz = 12.5%

Measuring

Conversion Chart

1 cup = 8 fluid ounces / 16 tablespoons / 48 teaspoons

1 pound = 16 ounces

1 pound of solid wax = approx. 1.5 - 2 cups of melted wax / 12-16 fluid ozs.

2 cups = 1 pint

4 cups = 1 quart

1 ounce = 30 grams

1 fluid ounce = 2 tablespoons / 6 teaspoons

1 tablespoon = ½ fluid ounce

1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons

½ oz to 1 pound of wax is 3%

1 oz to 1 pound of wax is 6%

1 and ½ oz to 1 pound of wax is 9%

Color Blending

To achieve pastel shades such as pink, peach, lavender, tan, or sky blue, simply add less of the bolder shade. For example, adding less red will result in pink, less orange will result in peach, and so on.

Complimentary Colors Complimentary colors are colors that are directly opposite each other on a color wheel.

Brown can be achieved by mixing complimentary colors evenly together: green and red, orange and blue, yellow and purple.

To darken a color, use a small amount of its complimentary color to obtain the darker shade. For example, add a small amount of blue to darken the color orange.

Burn Times Determine the weight of the candle by placing it on a scale.

Type Of Candle Burn Time

Tea Lights 4 - 6 hours

Votives (2 oz.) 15 hours

Votives (3 oz.) 23 hours

4 ounce jar 20 - 25 hours

5 ounce jar 25 - 30 hours

8 ounce jar 30 - 35 hours

10 ounce jar 60 - 80 hours

16 ounce jar 100 - 120 hours

22 ounce jar 150 - 160 hours

26 ounce jar 170 - 190 hours

8 inch taper 7 hours

12 inch taper 11 hours

3 x 6 pillar 90 - 100 hours

3 x 9 pillar 135 - 150 hours

4 x 6 pillar 145 - 160 hours

Troubleshooting

Cannot smell the fragrance - Many times this is caused by using a poor quality fragrance. Use the highest quality fragrance oils available, and make sure they are designed for candlemaking.

Why is the wax shrinking around the wick (pillar candles) ? - Wax shrinks as it cools; this is a natural occurrence in all candlemaking. Release the surface tension of the candle by carefully poking the surface with a sharp pointed object, being careful not to disturb any designs. This prevents cavities or air pockets from forming. Refill the well at the top of the candle while it cools.

Also, make sure that the wax is poured when it is at the correct temperature (200F). Do not remove the wax from the heat source until just before it is poured.

Flaky appearance - The additives were probably not completely dissolved when poured into the wax. Try to melt the additives first and then add to your wax. Stir gently and blend additives completely with the wax.

Bubbles in the wax - Air bubbles can be caused by several things. Pouring or stirring the wax too quickly, not tapping the sides of the molds, and cooling the candles too quickly can add unwanted bubbles to your candles.

Candle cannot be released from the mold - This is caused if the wax was poured at too high a temperature, resulting in a damaged mold. Using mold release or a small amount of vegetable oil inside the mold prior to pouring can prevent this from happening. Make sure that you know the maximum temperature for your mold before you pour wax in it. Place the candle mold in the refrigerator for no more than an hour, then attempt removal again. Check for irregularities on the surface of the candle; if the mold was damaged, this same irregularity will appear on candles made with this same mold in the future.

White marks between layers - This is caused from either allowing the first layer to cool too much, or using too much stearic acid. Make sure the wax is the correct temperature just before pouring, and use less stearic acid in subsequent layers.

Cracks in the candle - This occurs when the candle has cooled too rapidly, such as with a water bath. Let the candles cool at room temperature instead.

Flame sputters - Water was either accidentally introduced to the wax before pouring or during the water bath. Be careful not to let water from the double boiler or water bath come into contact with the wax.

Wick won't stay lit - The wick may be either to small in diameter or cut too short. It may also have absorbed too much additive or dye. Adjust the size of the wick and the additives.

Candle smokes when burns - The wick may be too large or there may be air in the candle. Try using a smaller wick, keeping it trimmed to ¼ inch. Poke holes around the wick to assist with shrinkage.

"Wet" spots on a container candle - The containers may be too cold when the hot wax is poured. Try preheating the containers in an oven on a low temperature. Make sure containers are clean before pouring. This is unavoidable when using most one-pour waxes.